To Luarca 102km
To Foz 75km
Contrary to what Professor Higgins thinks, the rain in Spain falls mainly on Grum, whether he's in the mountains, on the coast, or on the plains. I've had two days lately, where I've been totally drenched. And also a couple of days of horrendous winds. I was crossing a couple of causeways, and was truly afraid for my welfare. I was leaning into the wind, but when a vehicle passed, the absence of the wind would almost toss me off the side of the road. So I took a couple of shortcuts..... ferrys across some tidal inlets. One was very short, about five minutes, but the other was about twenty minutes, and just a little rough. All was good, until the skipper turned towards the wharf. Then Fiona did a slide, and I thought she was going to go swimming.... fully loaded. But she hung on in, and I scrapped her off the deck, and hauled her ashore. Gave me a bit of a heart flutter though.
But all is not bad. I took Fletch's advice, and found some happy pills in aisle 14, beside the frozen goods, and the sun came out to play, and things always seem easier in the sunshine. I've been meeting a few "pligrims" walking the Camino. They're finding it a bit hard. Some steep sections up and down to beaches, and some tough asphalt stretches. Nope. I'm happy to be on my bike. Yesterday, for almost 30km, I followed along parallel to the coast, around a ridge, then down some lovely declines to a bridge, before climbing again. The downhills were fun, the uphills not too steep, I often passed under the motorway twice on each loop, and it all happened in a lovely eucalyptus forest. Felt and smelt, just like cycling in Aussie. I was just waiting for the famous "Drop Bear" to appear, when I went round a bend, and met an Aussie couple from Byron Bay way. Great being able to chat to someone that you can almost understand.......
My roommate the other night, we were the only two in a 200 bed hostel, was a Korean American. She had trained as a Doctor, but never registered, instead has been practicing "Eastern Medicine." Talking to her was very interesting, and I asked heaps of questions. She told me she regards the human body as its own universe. Four limbs, (four seasons), five vital organs, (five oceans), six other organs, (six continents)..... and much more, that I missed, as I was counting..... She also talked about diet, and how the percentage of types of teeth should correspond with the percentage of types of food you eat. For example, four canine teeth mean 16% of your diet should be meat, while 64% of your teeth being for crushing grains. The numbers astounded and confused me, but totally fascinating thinking. She also showed me some exercise that will help combat Prostate, and Breast Cancers. Interesting.
Then I meet a young French nurse, and a young German mechanical engineer. Both were dissatisfied with their jobs, so quit them, and came to find themselves, walking the Camino Santiago. I congratulated them, as one piece of advice I give, to those who bother to listen, is "if you're not happy, quit, and move on....." Nice to meet some youngsters doing exactly that. The road code here in Spain insists vehicles give at least 1.5m of space to a cyclist, and almost all do so. On windy roads, they will slow right down to my speed, until they are certain they can pass legally and safely. It's so nice to be respected.
My shoe squeaks. For a few weeks now, I've had what I though was a squeaky front wheel. Before I hit the road cone, I had a slight wobble in the front wheel, but I couldn't find why I had a squeak. Then the wheel was changed, and no squeak, until it rained, and the squeak returned. I searched, but couldn't find the source. I rode around a car park in my socks. No squeak. I put on my shoes...... a squeak. Damn, I'm glad it's not the new wheel.
The gardeners in all the small villages are busy, mowing lawns, weedeating road edges, all in preparation for the "Most Beautiful Village on the Coast" competition. It doesn't feel many months ago that I was cycling past farmers, using a hand scythe to cut similar length growth, but scraping all the cuttings into a basket, and carrying it all 5km back to their one cattle beast for feed. It amazing the different values various societies have.
Today I'm in Foz. (Love the name) It's a small coastal village, with a great cliff top walk. The sea was a tempest today. Huge waves, and incredible shoreline action. The weather and nature create some amazing spectacles.
37,000km done today. The question is..... do I continue to follow the coastline, or cut across country to Santiago de Compostela with the Pilgrims?