Batukau to Lovina 45km
Lovina to Gilimanuk 85km
I'm feeling pretty tired still in the morning. Many times when I rolled over in the night I was woken by cramps in the legs. (Fixed it with Arnica, Rod.) The legs are still weary when I carry my panniers up two flights of stairs to my bike, but not much up hill today......
Only 2km uphill to the village fruit market. We had visited it the other day and one lady had been very generous and let us taste some new fruits.....so I went back to her. She wasn't as generous this morning and quoted an huge price for 12 pieces of fruit. I said no way, so she shoved a huge bunch of bananas and half a dozen extra pieces in the bag, and halved the price???? I still reckon I paid too much, and how am I going to eat all this fruit? But at least Ive got food, fresh and dried, and lots of water today.
Downhill for a bit past a volcanic lake, and then....what the heck....more up hill....climbing out of the crater....and its steep. Just about ran over some monkeys...too tired to dodge them, and had to stop several times when I could get out of the traffics way.
But then the.......downhill, glorious downhill, on smooth tarmac, with lovely rolling corners that you can lean into....for almost 20km. Trouble is the cars are too slow. Me and the scooters were hoofing it, so much so that I reckon I just about wore out the brake pads slowing down for cars.....Fantastic. And then I'm in the traffic of Bali's second City, Singaraja and I find a quiet spot by the sea to eat some fruit, and let the adrenaline levels subside.
It's only midmorning so I decide to head west. Negotiate my way through the really heavy traffic of the central City market...fun....and onto the main west road....no other choice really.
After about 30mins a scooter comes up beside me. He owns a Home Stay in Lovina......good price....close to beach.....free breakfast....free Wifi......follow me. Okay. Sounds worth a look. I follow. It was all true. $15....a little rougher than what we've been getting on the Adventure South trip.....but I'm up for it. A short day, a bit of a rest, and let's see what tomorrow offers.
Well my new friend offers even before then. Dolphins and Snorkeling at 6am....for $25....no too much.....okay $20.....I'm too easy...I sign up, and have a huge pizza(a short break from Nasi Goreng Lyn) for a late lunch....I've already snoozed through lunch time.
This side of Bali has lots of Germans and French, and very few Aussies. They're all in Kuta. The sunset is stunning, but the beach isn't much. To get comfortable you need to lounge in a bar or restaurant.
5.45am and there is a tapping on the door....Dolphins Sir, wake up...... We're on the beach by 6am, and I'm in a boat with two German girls and a Dutch Couple, about my age, who are cycling around Bali over three weeks. It's still dark but we head out from shore for a couple of Kms where we join a couple of other boats. Sure enough dolphin appear, and we follow them. Suddenly, we are surrounded by boats. I count them. Over 50, and all are chasing the dolphin, trying to get as close as possible.....oh my goodness..... The dolphin disappear, and the armada circulate. Someone points. Dolphins spotted. 50 boats rush towards them. This continues for almost an hour, until the dolphin finally escape back to sea. Oh my goodness. What had I bought into? ? ? Animal harassment....
Finally our skipper calls it a day, and we head back towards the beach. We stop above a reef and are passed snorkel, mask and flippers. Gotta say, what I saw was pretty amazing. So many fish, so many colours, even if the choral looks pretty dead. The trouble was the gear was not good. My mask leaked and wouldn't tighten up. My snorkel had a crack in it that let water in, and the mouth piece tasted like petrol. I'd had enough pretty quick. My eyes were sore, my mouth tasted foul, and my sinuses were flowing. Ju I did it for you, because you would have loved it (the snorkeling..not the gear)
Back for breakfast by 9am, and I've decided to hit the road towards Java...... The road is reasonably flat, sometimes busy, and the day is pretty warm. But it's fun. I stop at my first roadside shack for a meal. Not sure what any of it except the rice was, but it filled the gap, and hasn't as yet produced any side effects. Twice I headed down to a beach, thinking maybe a dip would cool me down, but both tines the beach and water were looking pretty unpleasant....no I'm not going in there.... Three times I stopped looking for more Monkey Sweat, but found none, so had to go with Sprite, which sells for 20% of the price it sells for in Kuta. Twice more I almost ran over monkeys.....they run over the road in front of me, startled by a push bike...
I'm feeling pretty good as I pull into Gilimanuk, and am directed to a hotel. Only a few hundred metre to the ferry to Java, and new adventures. Brendon reckons I'll be arrested within the first day for exposing my knees in a Muslim state......